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AADS January Intersession in Dakar, Senegal

Baobab Tree,
symbol of Senegalese
Life and Culture

See images and sounds of the student's experience in Senegal.

After a preparatory 2-credit class in the fall semester, eleven Bard and Simon's Rock students set off for Dakar in late December. The class explored Senegal's unique position as the founding place of two major Islamic brotherhoods and the legacy of France's assimilation policy (Dakar and Saint Louis were important capitals of French West Africa, or AOF). Students also learned about the Senegalese Diaspora, particularly the large community in New York City. The class explored themes of societal castes, French colonialism, assimilation and identity, Islam, ever-changing gender relations, negritude, and Dakar: the summit of Franco-African culture. Readings included works by Sembene Ousmane, Taaw and God's Bits of Wood, Joe Lunn, A Senegalese Oral History of the First World War, Mariama Ba's Scarlet Song, and films by Sembene Ousmane, Faat Kine and Djibril Diop Mambety, La Petite Vendeuse du Soleil.

Students began their Wolof training through dialogue.

January in Dakar Session
The group traveled from New York (JFK) to Dakar, Senegal from December 29-January 27. Students began classes at the West African Research Center in the Fann Residence neighborhood of Dakar. Fann, near the Université Cheikh Anta Diop, was the center of the literary Negritude and intellectual movement. Classes consisted of 12 hours of Introductory Wolof and seminars on African Politics, History, Sociology and The Arts Movement in Senegal. Distinguished lecturers from the University of Cheikh Anta Diop included:
  • Historian Boubacar Barry (Senegambia and the Atlantic Slave Trade; and Le Royaume du Waalo, le Sénégal avant la Conquête);
  • Sociologist Malick Ndiaye (L'éthique Ceddo et la Société d'accaparement; and Le Moodu Moodu); and
  • Literary Critic Oumar Ndongo.

In addition, students had seminars with distinguished artists, such as:

  • International Contemporary artist Viye Diba (leader of Ecole de Dakar Arts movement of the 1960s);
  • Sadia, painter; and
  • Djiby Guisse (of the popular band, Freres Guisses)

Students also learned the terms of trade of the market on global and local levels through consultants, human rights workers, international business professionals (including brokers from the newly formed West African Stock Exchange–BRVM), market women, and politicians.

A highlight of the Senegal experience was excursions outside of Dakar. The group attended the Bouki Blues Festival, a festival celebrating music from the Senegambia to the Mississippi Delta. Blues artists from Wolof and Hal-Pulaar ethnic groups of Senegal (Freres Guisses, Seydina Wade, Pape Niang), Mauritania (Maluma), Mali performed on stage with musicians from Mississippi (James "Chikan" Johnson). Other excursions included trips to the textiles manufacturing center in Thies, consecrated edifices in Touba, the monastery at Keur Moussa, and the slave house at Goree Island.

Of course, students were invited into multiple homes so that they could experience true Senegalese hospitality.

Teranga
Teranga is a Wolof term signifying hospitality–hospitality unique to Senegal. So, though while Bard students will live together and many of the excursions are pre-arranged, students are nevertheless encouraged to visit families and exchange cultural ideas and experiences with their peers in Dakar.


Family Life: Dakar eating with family.

Students lived in housing at Suffolk University’s Dakar Campus located in Mermoz, a few minutes walk from the Atlantic Ocean. At the Dakar Campus of Suffolk, Bard students had the opportunity to interact with other students from Senegal and West Africa.


Senegal Coast

 

Dakar is a city no one can ever forget!
The capital of Senegal is a modern city of 1.5 million with beautiful contemporary buildings and some historical colonial houses. It is a vibrant city with active open-air markets (including pests trying to sell their wares), cafe terraces, delicious food and a great nightlife. The highlight of the nightlife is a visit to the internationally acclaimed musician’s, Youssou Ndour, club, Thiossane. You can discover Dakar by taking a walk along the ocean or the busy city streets. Art lovers will find an abundance of galleries, artists' studios, museums, and festivals. Senegal is a shopper's paradise whether you decide to immerse yourself in the hectic Sandaga Market in the heart of downtown or whether you prefer the more remote cloth market, HLM. After class and projects, students will have time to explore this splendid metropolis.


Cathedral in Dakar, Senegal

Gorée Island
Central in African Diaspora History, Gorée Island was the embarkation point for slaves leaving the Senegambia destined for the New World. Gorée is a picturesque island less than 2 miles from Dakar. From the beginning of the sixteenth to the mid-nineteenth century, men, women, and children were gathered on this small piece of land, locked up in cells before being shipped away to the New World. The Portuguese, the Dutch, the French, and the English who all participated in the trade seized the island. Forts and cannons attest of the island's violent past. Some buildings, once used as slave houses, have been turned into historic sites. The most famous, "La Maison des Esclaves," has cells that we will visit as we listen to the story by the famous, Mr. Ndiaye. In addition, we will explore the small Island by foot, and enjoy the music of Mbaye Falls whose rich sounds emanate from the Castor (the highest point on the island).


Goree Island

Thies
After having read God ‘s Bits of Wood in the Fall semester, students will have an occasion to roam around the city of Thies – the center of the historic railway strike of 1947-8 and the subject of Sembene Ousmane’s novel. Thies is approximately 1 hour from Dakar.

Touba
Touba is important in West African Islamic history because it is here that Cheikh Amadou Bamba founded the Mouride Brotherhood in 1887. Today, millions of Mourides come from throughout the United States, Europe and Asia during the Great Magal (pilgrimage). Magal is a celebration of the departure for exile of Cheikh Amadou Bamba, back in 1898, as one of the multiple charges he faced under the French Colonial Administration. The tenets of work and prayer are at the heart of Mouridism. Senegal is 96% Muslim and the Mouride order, popular amongst youth, is the fastest expanding brotherhood. Interestingly enough, and many of New York Senegalese businessmen and street vendors are Mourides and many influential spiritual leaders of the movement frequent New York to visit their constituency. Visit the Passport to Paradise exhibit online to learn more.


Touba

Keur Moussa
Though Senegal is only 3% Christian, the Keur Moussa monastery is a Sunday must visit. Keur Moussa was established in 1961 by a French Father Saint Pierre as a place of reflection and religious study for Senegal’s Catholic population. Religious services, initially conducted in Latin, are now conducted in Latin and local languages (especially Wolof) to benefit the Senegalese Christian community. Music is an important part of the service as monks and choirs mix Gregorian chants with the African melodies of the Kora (an important musical instrument from the Mandingue tradition of storytelling) and drums. Afterwards, the monks sell their produce from their farms, cheese manufactured from their goats, CDs and tapes of their music, and hand-made musical instruments. The profits go back into the monastery to finance social programs that benefit the surrounding community. The visit to Keur Moussa is a very peaceful spiritual experience for those of any faith.

Saint Louis
Saint Louis was one of the most important of Senegal’s Four Communes. The first trading post was constructed in 1659. It is a city rich in history with narrow streets, wooden balconies and beautiful patios. The city can be visited on foot or in a traditional horse-drawn carriage. Saint Louisians pride themselves on their difference. Saint Louis, was the original capital of Senegal but became the capital of French West Africa. An hour north lays the extraordinary Djoudj National Park, an oasis of freshness and tranquility that is home to 3 million birds during winter. In the south is the Langue de Barbarie National Park, a refuge for birds and sea turtles, which gather here to breed.


City Streets in Rufisque (Four Communes)

 

LINKS
Explore these exciting links and Discover Sunugal

For news:
www.sudonline.sn
www.walf.sn
www.lesoleil.sn

West African Stock Exchange:
www.brvm.org/fr/index.htm

Official Government Page:
www.gouv.sn

Other Exciting Links:
www.senegal-online.com
www.seneweb.com